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It’s Easy Being Green: Italy’s Best Winery Gardens

Photo Source: Unsplash,

From the ornamental horticulture of ancient Rome, to the monastic gardens of the Middle Ages and pleasure gardens cultivated during the Renaissance, Italians have a long and lush history of grooming their already alluring surrounds into verdant, floral landscapes. Today, elements from the country’s more pivotal moments can be seen within formal giardino all’Italiana, and many of its most stunning carpet the grounds of wine estates. Some are living artifacts, others are new. All represent a selection of the most beautiful and fragrant places in Italy.

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige Ensconced in Alpine scenery, Abbazia di Novacella dates to 1142. Founded as an Augustinian monastery and still maintained by monks, the abbey has established an international reputation for its wine. The property echoes the crossroads of culture that define its Südtirol location, and its crisp, mineral-soaked whites like Grüner Veltliner and Kerner taste more Austrian than Italian.

Its sloped, sun-soaked vineyards are anchored by two acres of gardens, which are divided into three distinct sections. There’s an ornate, symmetrical Baroque-styled area that’s home to geometric flower beds, ginkgo trees and a giant sequoia. Herbs and fruits, meanwhile, fill an edible section. This is where monks source yarrow, lovage and cucumber weed to create healing tinctures and kitchen staff draw peppermint, mallow and chamomile for herbal teas. The third segment features an apple orchard that offers a taste of terroir without alcohol. Its slightly sweet Reinette de Champagne, juicy Ananas Reinette and tart Gravenstein apples are juiced and bottled at the abbey.

Villa Poggio Torselli, Tuscany Once owned by the Machiavelli family, the 15th-century Villa Poggio Torselli is known as much for its grounds as its Chianti Classico. Just outside of Florence, its extensive verdure dates to sometime between the late 1600s and early 1700s, when noted architect Lorenzo Merlini was commissioned to design the adjacent villa. Meticulously restored in the early 2000s, a walled Italianate garden that spans multiple terraces is flanked by wings of the building, while a formal English-style arrangement lies to the north.

Unlike many of the country’s estate gardens, this was designed to bloom year-round. Tulips and narcissuses emerge in the spring, while dahlias, medicinal herbs, thyme and rosemary linger longer, and a dazzling collection of citrus trees, some a century old, bursts steadily from terracotta pots. The garden also boasts a few horticultural oddities, like its rare mandrake, a root with a shadowy reputation as an herb of the occult.

Azienda Agricola Rivetto, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont Run by a fourth-generation winemaking family, Rivetto’s original 1938 farmhouse remains the site of wine production for regional grapes like Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Moscato d’Asti. Last year, the winery became the first in Barolo and Barbaresco to be certified biodynamic by Demeter. Organic practices perfected in the vineyard now extend to the grounds and gardens, created and overseen by Enrico Rivetto. “I realized…that vineyards didn’t have to be the only crop on these hills,” he says.

Focused on biodiversity, Rivetto dedicates almost three acres to 500 historic and native trees like leafy oaks, yews and horse chestnuts. Seven types of lavender are also grown here, as well as rosemary and sage, grains and an abundance of fruits and vegetables. What doesn’t end up in the winery’s kitchen is sold to local restaurants.

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico, Tuscany Tucked into the steep hills of Gaiole in central Italy, Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano is well-known as a Sangiovese specialist. But, in recent years, it’s also established a reputation for its captivating, pollinator-friendly habitat. Beginning in 2017, notable landscape architect and consultant Richard Shelbourne designed and constructed a 25,000-square-foot garden atop one of the estate’s wine cellars.

Rife with native shrubs and plants that nourish local butterflies and bees, a world of flowers, including yarrows, irises, jades, peonies, jasmine, wisteria and 20 types of roses, now perfumes the roofscape. Iron pergolas wrapped in more greenery and terracotta containers provided by Tuscan artisans guide those who wander its pathways to the osteria, wine shop and winery.

While there are countless craft breweries pouring exceptional sips across the U.S., those looking to try great beers straight from the source should head to Washington’s Yakima Valley.

Yakima-area breweries take the concept of fresh off the farm to a whole new level, and that’s because of their access to hops. More than 75% of the country’s hops, which are a key flavoring and bittering agent for beer, are grown, harvested and processed in the valley. As a result of that access, Yakima has become a hub for excellent craft brewing and only continues to grow.

According to Kyrié Benson, co-leader of Yakima’s Pink Boots Society chapter, a nonprofit that supports women in brewing, there were only two breweries when she moved to the area six years ago. Now, there are more than a dozen.

“Though we have lost a few breweries along the way, the beer scene is going strong and the appreciation of a good quality brew has never been more present,” she says. “Yakima is a great opportunity for beer snobs, as I call them, mostly because we get the freshest hops. Coming straight from a field to a refrigerator gives us the freshest product year-round.” To help plan your trip to this top beer destination, here’s a list of must-visit spots for beer and exceptional eats from restaurants embracing the area’s agricultural bounty.

Bale Breaker Brewing Company Bale Breaker was opened in 2013 by siblings Meghann Quinn, Kevin “Smitty” Smith and Patrick Smith and has been a hit in the valley ever since. But the brewery’s roots go back much further. The owners’ great-grandparents started farming hops in 1932; after growing up in an agricultural family, the siblings wanted to embrace a true fresh off-the-farm approach.

The brewery was built right in the middle of hop fields, so there’s plenty of opportunity to take in the sights and smells of the farm—especially during the hop harvest. The taproom has 16 beers on offer, including year-round flagships such as the Topcutter IPA and Field 41 pale ale, along with rotating seasonals and limited releases from the experimental “Imagination Station” menu. “I always tell everyone to ask for their experimental menu,” says Benson. “These are usually brews that are one-time made—unless they really catch on with the public. I have had some amazing sours from their experimental menu.”

In addition to a wide range of beers, there’s plenty of seating both inside and out on the lawn or patio, as well as a rotating food truck schedule featuring local eats.

Cowiche Creek Brewing Company Cowiche Creek Brewing is the ideal destination for expansive views, delicious food and refreshing beer. “The beer is born nearby and brewed on-site,” says Yakima native and foodie Matt Uhlman, who chronicles his favorite local eats on Instagram through The Eaten Road.

The taproom, which opened in 2017, is surrounded by hop bines. Owners Derrick and Maria Nordberg both come from farming families and planted their own barley, which they use for the operation’s estate-grown beers.

“The food here is truly unmatched to any brewery in the area. Derrick takes the culinary game to another level,” says Uhlman. Everything from burgers and pastrami sandwiches to prime rib has been on the menu, making easy pairings for brews like the Farmer Way IPA or hopped-up Golden Soda pilsner.

Single Hill Brewing Single Hill has created the ultimate downtown Yakima community space, which includes both an indoor and outdoor taproom. “They took a rundown tire shop and turned it into a must-hit spot,” says Uhlman. “They have a vision and have fun with it.”

Dedicated to ingredients locally-sourced locally in the valley, the brewery is making beer fun while embracing experimentation and working with a wide variety of hop strains. There are 16 beers on tap, with a diverse selection to offer something for beer lovers of every stripe. Try Single Hill’s year-round Cerveza blonde ale or tap into Island Reverie, a fruity guava and passionfruit sour.

Tieton Cider Works Tieton Cider Works is a great stop for beer lovers who are also cider aficionados—or simply cider curious. “Tieton was perhaps the first to make the most obvious Yakima Valley move and create tantalizing libations centering around the fruit industry we are known for,” says Shawn Niles, MasterChef contestant and owner of Yakima restaurant Eats & Elixirs.

The fruit used in the operation’s various ciders come from Craig and Sharon Campbell’s Harmony Orchards, which is on land that’s been in the couple’s family since the 1920s. Tieton’s offerings are centered around these apples and other locally-sourced ingredients, and include options like lavender honey cider, cherry cider and dry-hopped cider made from locally grown hops.

Hoptown Wood-Fired Pizza Hoptown isn’t your average pizza place. The eatery embraces fresh ingredients and fires pizza pies in a 900°F oven powered by fragrant apple wood. Owners Lori Roy and Carrie Wright are both the daughters of area farmers; Roy grew up on one of the valley’s oldest hop farms.

Niles says it’s a top spot to visit in the valley because of its tasty grub that pairs excellently with local brew. “Carrie and Lori are the most gracious hosts, and their unique take on pizza and every other menu item is well thought out and delicious with every bite,” he says.

There’s a wide range of pizzas to choose from, including the Hopdaddy, which is finished with a sprinkle of hops, along with sides like the Hey Elote corn dip, which Niles says is a can’t-miss. Pair it with a beer from one of Hoptown’s rotating taps featuring locally-brewed selections, or sip on its house-made hops and fig cider, Frisky Seester. Eats & Elixirs For a change of pace after a day of brewery hopping, grab a seat at Eats & Elixirs. The restaurant is run by Julie Kirchhoff and Niles, who also runs Bite Club Yakima, an underground members-only dining club. The vintage, speakeasy-like space has a relaxed vibe and features a menu of globally-inspired tapas.

“The group that works here, as a whole, has a wonderfully diverse background, and has done a great job of gathering foods that bring comfort and joy from all corners of the globe,” says Uhlman. “It’s rare to find a place where you can get an amazing take on a Montecristo, Thai fried chicken, Brazilian patatas bravas or a deliciously done paella at the same meal.”

Don’t skimp on pairing your meal with craft cocktails or a pour from Eats & Elixirs‘s locally-focused beer and wine selection. According to Benson, the cocktails here are entirely Instagram-worthy, taking flavor and presentation into account. Drinks are served up in stunning glassware and made with Pacific Northwest-produced spirits, including Woodinville whiskey and Crater Lake Spirits gin. Meanwhile, the wine selection highlights Yakima Valley winemakers including Two Mountain Winery, Owen Roe and sparkling options from Treveri Cellars. Need more beer? Local favorites, including Bale Breaker and Cowiche Creek are on the menu here, too.

Crafted With James Beard Foundation Award nominee Dan Koommoo at the helm, along with his wife Mollie, the welcoming eatery embraces the bounty of the Yakima Valley. “Most of the ingredients come from within 20 miles of the restaurant, from farms where they know the people growing and harvesting the food,” says Uhlman. Dishes, which are served family-style, change frequently based on seasonality and what the restaurant’s farming partners are harvesting.

The drink selection here features a mix of local beers, wines and spirits. Order a beer sourced from nearby Cowiche Creek Brewing or Bale Breaker, or a glass of wine produced by Gilbert Cellars or Fortuity Cellars—both less than 15 miles down the road. According to Benson, Crafted’s cocktails are just as fresh and exciting as their food menu.

Varietal Beer Co. Varietal is located further south in the Yakima Valley in Sunnyside, but for locals and travelers alike, it’s absolutely worth the drive. There’s plenty of seating at this community hub, both inside and out in the beer garden. The outdoor space is kid-friendly and dog-friendly, with a large grassy area and hops growing on the fence line.

The tap list here is extensive, with everything from lagers and IPAs to stouts. Varietal has an excellent sour beer program and features guest beers and Pacific Northwest hard ciders as well. “They have solid hazy IPAs and they like experimenting with all unique styles,” adds Benson. Bring a picnic to pair with your beer or grab food from the rotating on-site food truck.

How to Get Around Though renting a car is always an option, the Little Hopper is an area beer bus that was launched with the goal of helping connect beer lovers with area breweries while serving as the designated driver. The Little Hopper’s owner, Wendy King, offers multiple services on her colorful 14-seat bus. You can choose to book it for a private tour led by a local or use the hop-on-hop-off option, which runs on select weekends and has four different brewery stops rotating during the day for a more casual approach.


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