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  • Report: Shein Violating Labour Laws

    12 November 2021 Source: BOF Please contact us for republishing permission and citation formatting. Photo Source: Pipper Skirt - Shidonna Raven Fashion. All Rights Reserved. Copyright. On Friday, Public Eye, a Swiss watchdog group, released a detailed report that accuses the rising fast-fashion giant of violating Chinese labour laws. The group hired independent Chinese researchers to track Shein’s manufacturing and packing process in China and Europe. In Guangzhou, the city where Shein is headquartered and where many of its suppliers are located, researchers were able to track down 17 Shein partners. They found some manufacturers were informal factories set up in residential buildings. Some also had barred windows and no emergency exits, according to Public Eye; conditions that violate Chinese labour laws. “I don’t want to think about what would happen if a fire broke out there,” one researcher said. Workers in Guangzhou also told the researchers they sewed for 12 hours a day, working about 75 hours a week, and only received one day off a month. At Shein’s packing facility in the city of Foshan, workers also said they worked 12 to 14-hour days and up to 28 days a month. Chinese labour laws state workweeks cannot exceed 40 hours, and overtime cannot exceed 36 hours per month. Workers must also receive one day off per week. Researchers were told many labourers that work for Shein suppliers are migrant workers from other provinces. “Many are only in the city for a limited time, without their families and with no responsibilities other than to earn as much money as possible,” the report said. “One of the interviewees states that, in general, the wage per item of clothing is considerably lower here than in other places where he had worked. However, the quality expectations are not particularly high either.” In an email to BoF, Shein said it “takes all supply chain matters seriously.” “Upon learning of the report, we immediately requested a copy and when we receive and review the report, we will initiate an investigation,” Shein said. “We have a strict supplier Code of Conduct which includes stringent health and safety policies and is in compliance with local laws. If non-compliance is identified we will take immediate action.” Shidonna Raven Fashion is a U.S. based brand focused on sustainable and couture inspired fashion for women, men, child, baby and home. How will you accessorize this season? Why? Send us a picture ! It could be featured in our blog. Share your comments with the community and this post with 3 of your family and friends.

  • The Ultimate Guide to Sustainably Caring For Your Clothes

    Source: Scandinavia Standard Shidonna Raven Fashion. All Rights Reserved. Copyright. Please contact for republishing permission and citation formatting. Photo Source: Unsplash, Charles Etoroma What does it mean to take care of your clothes in a sustainable way? Is it only about the materials themselves, or are there other things to keep in mind? Having truly sustainable garment care practices starts from shopping for an item to how often you wear it, to washing it, to storing it, and finally, mending or disposing of it. Think of it as the life cycle of a garment. We’re sharing the top tips and tricks for sustainable clothing, as well as which fibres are most sustainable, what detergents to use, how to keep your clothes in shape, and how to mend them when they break. If you’ve ever had a question about caring for your clothes, this guide is here to help!d Here’s how to shop for and take care of your clothes so that they last for the longest time possible: How to shop for the most sustainable clothes There are a few things to keep in mind when shopping for sustainable clothes. The first is considering whether you need to buy something at all. The Swedish research institution Mistra Future Fashion says that by wearing a garment twice as many times, its environmental impact can be halved. The research noted that on average, a T-shirt is used 30 times and washed 15 times.” Once you’ve decided to buy, find out how and by whom the clothes are made. As sustainable Danish brand Organic Basics says in their A-Z Guide to the Fashion Industry , “Ask where it’s made. Ask who made it. Ask because you deserve to know how your clothes are made. They’re your clothes after all.” Ethical production is a necessary part of sustainability; if it’s not ethically-made, it’s not sustainable. Most websites now have at least a corporate social responsibility (CSR) policy. If they don’t, don’t be afraid to reach out directly to brands. It’s our experience that even brands that have impressive CSR policies sometimes don’t effectively communicate them. Next, consider how you’ll be using your garment; this will help you decide what fabric is best for you. Things to keep in mind include how often you’re likely to wear it, what kind of tailoring or mending it might require over time, how it will need to be washed, and how you’ll store it. Is steaming better than ironing? For the most part, yes! Steaming is much more gentle on your clothing as the heat of the device doesn’t come into direct contact with the fabric. This is especially true for more delicate fabrics such as silk. The only time we recommend ironing over steaming is when the wrinkles cannot be removed with steam alone. How often should I wash my clothes? As little as possible! This will differ for everyone. It depends on how you wear your clothes, how much you typically sweat, and the fabric of the garment, among other things. There are some fabrics, such as SilverTech, which are antimicrobial and therefore require less washing. Danish brand Organic Basics has a SilverTech collection that includes activewear and undergarments. Some natural fibres are also antimicrobial, such as alpaca wool. Unless you stain the fabric, alpaca wool needs to be washed very infrequently; in fact, too much washing will damage the material. Instead, treat it like a rug: hit it gently to get out any dust or dirt, and air it out to get rid of slight smells or mustiness. Are natural fibers better than man-made fibres? Not always! Although we’ve been led to believe that natural fibres are always superior to manmade ones, this isn’t always the case. In fact, technical and manmade fabrics will be an important part of the future of sustainable fashion and overall textile production. For example, lyocell is a manmade fabric, created from wood pulp. Growing the trees to create lyocell takes far less water than growing cotton, so it is therefore a more sustainable fabric. Also important is how you plan to wear a fabric; if you’re working a job that requires intense physical labor, or you’re often in extreme weather, technical fabrics like Gortex can be a smarter choice than, say, wool, because they’ll actually last and won’t tear easily. Are recycled fabrics as good as new ones? Well, that depends! When fabric is mechanically recycled, meaning it is physically disassembled so the fibres can be used again, the fibres are necessarily weaker each time you use them. Mechanical recycling is the most commonly-used form of fabric recycling because it is relatively inexpensive. It is fairly easy to recycle items that are 100% cotton, polyester, or wool, but harder to recycle blended fabrics, particularly those with elastane. Chemical recycling, which is unfortunately still mostly in the testing phase and is quite expensive, actually produces stronger fibres than the garment that preceded it. In this process, the garment is chemically broken down to create new fibres. It only works on single-fibre items and is currently only in use on a large-scale in Asia, with lab testing elsewhere. Clothing made from recycled plastic, which has become a popular way to reuse plastic, does create strong material, but unfortunately has a down-side: if the item is something you wash frequently, such as a shirt or leggings, it will leak microplastics back into the water. If, however, the item is something you wouldn’t frequently wash in a washing machine, such as a jacket or boots, that’s less of an issue. Recycled plastic still isn’t biodegradable, but at least it’s extending the life of plastic so that it doesn’t end up in a landfill! What are the best detergents to use on clothes? Liquid detergents tend to work better on oily stains because they can better break them down, while powder detergent is better of mud stains. But there isn’t a huge difference in effectiveness, so it’s really a matter of what you prefer. Overall, finding a detergent that does not contain phthalates, phosphates, and non-biodegradable surfactants will make your wash as healthy for your skin and the run-off water as possible. If you plan to wash wool, cashmere, or silk, make sure your detergent is enzyme-free. Enzymes attack these natural fibres, causing the fabric to errode over time. For an entirely natural detergent, try Soap Nuts. These dried nut husks are made from soapberry and produce saponin when put in water. They are usually sold in bulk; you then take three to five nuts, place them in a small fabric bag, and toss them in with your wash. They’ll act just as a regular detergent would, and each bag of soap nuts lasts approximately five washes. While the soap nuts are a natural alternative to detergent and are also safe for delicate washes like wool and silk, they are mainly imported from India and Nepal. If you are not local to those areas, it’s worth considering whether the environmental impact of importing them cancels out their benefits. How to wash fabrics COTTON Cotton is a cellulose fibre that comes from Gossypium, the cotton plant. Items that are 100% cotton can shrink easily; to avoid this, make sure to wash in cold or lukewarm water, and spot-treat any stains before washing. When you take a cotton item out of the washing machine, gently shake it to avoid deep wrinkles, and immediately hang or lay flat to air-dry. Do not tumble dry pure cotton. If the item does get wrinkled, use a steamer or, if necessary, an iron. SILK Silk is a delicate fibre made from the cocoons of silkworms. The best way to clean silk is by hand in cold water. Items that aren’t overly delicate (for example, vintage pieces) can be put in the washing machine, but should be washed only with like-items (other silks and delicates) in cold water. Make sure to use enzyme-free detergent so as not to damage the fabric. It is best to steam silk. If an iron must be used, make sure it is on the lowest possible temperature. WOOL AND CASHMERE Wool is a natural fibre that comes from sheep, alpaca, llama, or other animals, while cashmere comes from goats. June at sustainable Danish brand Aiayu , says: “At Aiayu we are partial to wool, especially llama wool. Llama wool is a self-cleaning fibre, and because the fibres are long, it does not pill easily. To reduce the effects of daily use – simply air it instead of washing it. Airing will rid of most smells and odours, give it a fresh look and feel, and the added bonus of the scent of fresh air that you simply cannot get in any other way.” She continues, “for minor spills, spot-wash gently by hand under cold water. To retain shape always fold and lay woolens flat instead of using a hanger. Keep moth infestations at bay by using your woolens regularly. When storing them away for the summer, pack in an airtight container with dried cedar as a natural repellant. If you are unfortunate to get a moth infestation – freeze the item before repairing.” If your wool or cashmere begins to pill, use a fabric shaver or comb to gently remove the pilling. A mark of really good wool and cashmere is that it seldom pills; instead, it becomes slightly shiny and develops a patina. This can be found in really high-quality items and often in thick vintage pieces. BLENDED TEXTILES Blended fabrics are usually quite durable. It’s most important to pay attention to the natural fibres, if any, in the item. For example, does it contain cotton, wool, or silk? If so, try to care for it as if it were entirely made of that fabric in order to best preserve it. MAN-MADE TEXTILES Man-made textiles such as polyester can be washed on medium heat in a washing machine. Even the most durable items shouldn’t be washed in very hot water unless absolutely necessary, as this distresses the fabric. How to mend your clothes Mending clothes is an invaluable skill. Being able to sew a button, ripped seam, or patch will ensure that your clothes remain useful regardless of normal wear-and-tear. You’re much more likely to simply mend your clothes and continue to wear them when you have these skills, as opposed to throwing them away. If you don’t already know how to sew a button or other relatively simple mending tasks, YouTube has some great tutorials. Larger or more complex repairs may require a sewing machine. If you don’t have access to a sewing machine, you may not be able to mend thicker items like leather and denim. It may also be difficult to mend extremely frayed edges or large holes. For situations like these, find a local tailor! Getting to know your local tailor is a great investment for your clothes. Shidonna Raven Fashion will complete mends of garments when possible. The best way to get rid of old clothes Keep your clothes for as long as possible. Sometimes, of course, an item can no longer be worn, or you simply know you won’t get further use from it. If an item is still wearable, give it to a friend, take it to a consignment store, donate it to a thrift shop, or repurpose it. If the garment is no longer wearable, recycle it. This doesn’t just mean dumping it in your nearest second-hand bin. Instead, find a service in your area that recycles textiles. You can find your nearest textile recycling location using the Recycle Now website (USA only). TerraCycle offers a wonderful service ; you order a box from them, fill it with clothing, then send it directly to them for zero-waste recycling. THIS ENTRY WAS POSTED IN FASHION AND TAGGED DENMARK , FASHION , SCANDINAVIA , SWEDEN ON OCTOBER 18, 2019 BY REBECCA THANDI NORMAN . REBECCA THANDI NORMAN Rebecca Thandi Norman is a co-founder and Editor-in-Chief at Scandinavia Standard. Which Shidonna Raven Fashion will you choose? How will you slink back into this seasons knits? How will you accessorize them? Send us a picture ! It could be featured in our blog. SHOP the COLLECTIONS Today! Share your comments with the community and this post with 3 of your family and friends.

  • How to Wash Clothes in a Conscious and Eco-Friendly Way

    Posted in Life by Johanna Andersson 16 January, 2018 Source: Make It Last Photo Source: Shidonna Raven Fashion. All Rights Reserved. Copyright. Photo Source: Unsplash, Ryoji Hayasaka As you probably know, the environmental impact of a garment doesn’t end after production—we as consumers also share a big part of the responsibility. One thing we can do to make our consumption more sustainable is considering the way we wash our clothes, and how often we do it. Many times, it’s simply enough to air the garments, steam them or spray them down with linen water, but when it’s time to throw them in the washer (due to stains or bad odor), there are a few things to keep in mind. Firstly: Always make sure to fill up the machine completely, use an eco program if available, and choose the lowest temperature possible to save water and energy—this also prevents the garments from loosing their shape and color. Apparently, bacteria isn’t completely reduced even at 60°C, so don’t turn the heat up for that reason; modern washing machines clean clothes just as effectively in lower temperatures. When reducing the heat, it’s better to go for a liquid detergent instead of powder as it dissolves better and is kinder to the clothes. Nowadays you can also find natural detergents that are specially made for sportswear, and reduces odor already at 30°C. And remember: don’t OD . Using too much detergent doesn’t make the clothes any cleaner—it’s simply a waste of resources. Speaking of detergents: we know it’s important to choose natural, eco-friendly and organic detergents to prevent toxic and harmful substances and particles from being released into nature or the air we breath; and we don’t want that stuff to get into our bodies via the clothes we wear either. The list of undesirables seems to go on and on, but some things that are often pointed out as “bad” include: optical brighteners, chlorine, synthetic perfumes and colors, parabens, phosphates, petrochemicals and sulfates. Question: how can we make informed choices if we can’t understand, or even pronounce, the words on the back of the bottles? Today, a lot of products are marketed as eco-friendly, natural and organic, but when you look at the ingredient list, it’s still completely incomprehensible. Question: how can we make informed choices if we can’t understand, or even pronounce, the words on the back of the bottles? In Sweden, for example, all detergents found in regular food stores are said to be “good for the environment”, but we’re pretty sure they run far behind the market leaders. So, let’s try to pin it down. We believe these are some of the qualities that make for a good washing detergent (and please let us know your view on this too!): Biodegradable and made from organic and natural ingredients; eco certified; concentrated and long-lasting (less water); free from toxic chemicals, artificial perfumes and colors; locally produced; contained in environmentally friendly, biodegradable and recyclable packaging. Few products seem to tick of all these boxes, unfortunately. Another question: Do we really need to include softeners in our washing routine? Conventional softeners are often full of toxic, hormone disturbing chemicals, perfumes and plastic particles (phthalates), and can even damage the fabrics. Also, they’re totally unnecessary. However, if you feel you need it, here’s an all-natural suggestion: apparently distilled white vinegar can be used as a sort of fabric softener , and it also helps cleaning the washing machine from detergent residues. Instead of perfumes, you can try adding a few drops of essential oils if that’s something you like (be careful with the dosage though), which are also known to have antibacterial properties. One final note: If you can, hang your clothes and textiles to air-dry instead of throwing them in the dryer. That saves a lot of energy and is much gentler on the fabrics that will last longer. And that’s what it’s all about, right? CHECKLIST 1. Only wash full (not stuffed) machines. 2. Wash on low temperatures. 3. Use eco-programming if available. 4. Use fluid detergents that are natural and eco-friendly. 5. Don’t overdose the washing detergent. 6. Skip the softener. 7. Avoid micro plastics being released by using a washing bag. 8. Air dry as much as you can. Which Shidonna Raven Fashion will you choose? We are all about longevity in fashion. How will you care for your clothes in a manner that gives them longevity keeping them in your closet longer and less clothing (fast & disposable fashion) in landfills? How will you accessorize them? Send us a picture ! It could be featured in our blog. SHOP the COLLECTIONS Today! Share your comments with the community and this post with 3 of your family and friends.

  • Fashion Brands Face Growing Pressure to Pay Debts to Garment Factories

    A movement called PayUp Fashion urges brands to protect, not exploit, their vulnerable essential workers. By  Katherine Martinko Published January 8, 2021 01:59PM EST Source: TreeHugger Garment workers in Dhaka, Bangladesh.Getty Images/Frédéric Soltan Source: TreeHugger Shidonna Raven Fashion Last March, a catastrophe hit Asia’s garment-producing countries. Major fashion brands canceled orders worth more than $40 billion, citing COVID-induced store closures and a severely weakened retail market, but in the process destroying the livelihoods of millions of garment workers who already struggle to get by on poverty wages. Mostafiz Uddin, owner of a denim factory in Chattogram, Bangladesh, told journalist Elizabeth Cline that the mass cancellations amounted to a business crisis worse than the Rana Plaza factory collapse in Dhaka that killed 1,134 people in 2013. In Uddin’s case, he was stuck with hundreds of thousands of pairs of jeans that were stacked in boxes up to the ceiling and was owed more than $10 million for labor and materials. As ethical fashion activists, NGOs, and concerned shoppers realized what was happening, a campaign took root on social media, using the hashtag “PayUp.” Its goal was to hold brands accountable and to inform the public about these egregious acts of corporate irresponsibility. In the words of Ayesha Barenblat, founder of a consumer activist group called  Re/make  that was among the first to use #PayUp on social media, the hashtag “made it very clear to the press and consumers that we were not asking for charity but simply good business.” This very reasonable request caused the campaign to go viral over the summer and, as of December 2020, it had pushed brands including Zara, GAP, and Next to pay at least $15 billion owed to garment factories. While these successes are worth celebrating, the job is far from over. The hashtag has since morphed into a more formal movement called PayUp Fashion , which hopes to maintain the pressure on major brands to revolutionize the fashion industry, once and for all. Cline, Barenblat, and a number of other experts, non-profits, and representatives from the garment industry are involved. PayUp Fashion’s 7 Actions PayUp Fashion lays out seven actions that fashion brands must take in order to build a garment industry that’s no longer so cruelly exploitative and unsustainable. These actions include (1) paying up immediately and in full for any outstanding orders, (2) keeping workers safe and offering severance pay, (3) improving transparency by disclosing factory details and wages of lowest-paid workers, (4) giving workers at least 50% representation in discussions about their rights, (5) signing enforceable contracts that remove risk from vulnerable workers, (6) ending starvation wages, and (7) helping to pass laws that reform the industry, rather than obstructing them. The second action – keeping workers safe – urges brands to pay an extra ten cents per garment that would go toward building a safety net for workers. As Cline explained to Treehugger, the pandemic revealed that workers have no recourse when their jobs disappear. “What many people might not realize is garment worker poverty is a direct result of how little brands are paying their factories for the clothes we wear. In fact, the price that brands pay to factories has gone down year-over-year over the past 20 years and declined another 12% during the pandemic despite the fact that wages should be rising. This race to the bottom makes it so that things like unemployment insurance and severance and living wages don’t get paid. It’s got to change.” Keep in mind that many of the countries in which these garment workers operate do not have reliable social safety nets of their own; and with such high percentages of their populations employed by the industry, “factories not being able to pay workers would mean total societal breakdown.” Hence, the new #10centsmore campaign that’s grown out of PayUp Fashion’s second action. Cline is hopeful that major brands will sign up quickly, considering the year we’ve just had. “Companies can’t afford the reputational damage of being linked to bad business practices anymore. Garment workers are essential workers, and we can all agree brands should share in the responsibility of creating a safety net for these people.” She said several big names are considering the proposal. PayUp Fashion also maintains a Brand Tracker list of 40 major labels to see how quickly they move toward meeting the seven demands. “Starting in September, PayUp Fashion expanded the brands we are tracking beyond just those who cancelled orders, because, to be frank, agreeing to not rob your factories during a pandemic is the absolute lowest bar for social standards in the fashion industry,” Cline told Treehugger. The list contains some surprising names, such as Everlane, Reformation, and Patagonia. When asked why companies that are generally thought of as ethical fashion leaders are on the list, Cline explained that, while they did not cancel orders, they are expected to “lead the pack” when it comes to meeting the actions. “It’s important to track not only the largest and most profitable companies but the major companies who make their money by marketing themselves as sustainable and ethical,” she said. “Those claims are rarely vetted by the public or a truly independent third party.” What Can You Do to Help? Signing the PayUp Fashion petition is as important as ever. Each signature sends an email to the executives of the 40 brands being tracked. Tagging brands on social media that have not yet promised to #payup is effective, too. You can see a full list here . Pushing all brands to promise to pay #10centsmore for greater worker security is also important. It’s crucial to stay focused on what real transformative change means for the fashion industry. It’s not about using more recycled water bottles, fabric made from mushrooms, or wearing 3D-printed clothing, as innovative as these technologies may be. Nor is it about praising brands for so-called transparency, which Cline points out is less about reforming fashion and more “a way for brands to self-report on their good behavior.” Real transformation means that all human workers are paid a fair wage for a fair day’s work and that factories and garment workers are equal partners in fashion. “That,” Cline said, “would be a truly innovative change.” As consumers and producers we also do our best to do so responsible. How can you help? Buying with longevity in mind is one major way to consume responsibly and sustainable. We are committed to making products that are made with longevity in mind. Some of our most treasured Shidonna Raven Fashion has been with us for over 8 years. #fashion #women #fairtrade #paydebt #covid #COVID19 #responsible #pandemic #garmentfactories #fashionbrands #men #buyingsustainably #debts #green #sustainable #coronavirus #payupfashionpetition #clothing #shidonnaraven #environment #payupfashion #buyingresponsibly #longevity #accessories #shidonnaravenfashion #brands #treehugger #sustainabilitybrand #environmentallyfriendly #corona #retail #treehuggercom #starvation #factorycountries #payup

  • THE GUIDE TO ACCESSORIZING YOUR HOLIDAY FASHION

    BETH SHANKLE ANDERSON Source: The Style Boutique The holiday season is approaching fast. Whether you have a work Christmas party or plan to ring in the New Year right, you will need the perfect outfit and the even more perfect accessories to go with it. If you are a fashion fanatic like me, it means that you have been pursuing your favorite stores since the beginning of October and bought a dreamy holiday outfit. Little black dresses, sequin two-pieces, velvet jumpsuit­s—all will be perfect for the show stopping outfit you have been imagining. Once you have the outfit, it is time to accessorize, and the great thing about the holidays is that you can go all out. Crank up the glitz and the glam to make sure your look is unforgettable, and by changing up the accessories, you can get multiple wears out of you look. Cover up from the cold The Cozy Cowl Shidonna Raven Fashion There are so many stylish ways to keep you warm. Blanket scarves or ponchos bring volume and interesting colors to your outfit, along with warmth. A faux fur coat or vest would be an amazing addition that adds luxury and style. If you are worried about your bare legs in your dress, tights can be a great option for you. There are so many colors and types of tights to choose from, and I really think the super opaque ones look great with glam looks. You could also wear over-the-knee socks if you want to add something quirky and cute to your look. Put jewels on jewels Shidonna Raven Fashion Nothing perks up the holiday flare like jewelry. Whether you choose extravagant chandelier earrings or a pretty statement necklace, you can’t really go wrong on a night like this. Layering bold and sparkly pieces will be sure to turn heads everywhere you go. Don’t forget to add stacking bracelets and cute rings for a head-to-toe look. Walk this way Source: The Style Boutique Shidonna Raven Fashion Choosing shoes is sometimes the hardest part of creating an amazing look. If you are worried about the amount of walking you will be doing, over-the-knee boots or booties might be the best option for you. If you know you will not be walking much, close-toed heels or pumps will are a very classic look. High-heeled boots and booties will be great too. Make sure to choose your shoe to fit your desired comfort level, but you also want them to enhance your look too. Find the perfect purse Cable Vito Mini Clutch Shidonna Raven Fashion Accessorizing with designer bags, chic clutches or a purse is important. Clutches are the ultimate fashion accessory for night parties, but if the clutch won’t do, you want to have the perfect bag to fit your lipstick, your wallet and other necessities but still adds to your look. Holiday parties call for glitz and glam. There are numerous ways to accessorize your outfit for any holiday party, so don’t be shy with your beautiful additions because these nights are for showcasing your amazing style and will make for lasting impressions on others into the New Year. Good luck, and happy holidays! How will you accessorize for the holidays? What are your holiday plans this year? Who is on your holiday gift list? Shop now #fashion #women #shidonnaravenfacom #knits #shidonnaravenfashiondesign #winter #fallfashion #christmas #autumnfashion #Kwanzaa #womensfashion #accessorizing #fall #winterscarf #holiday #clothes #shidonnaraven #guideforaccessorizingfortheholidays #shidonnaravenfashion #autumn #winterfashion #hanukkah

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